‘The rock stars of American cheese’: the enduring legacy of Cowgirl Creamery

When Sue Conley and Peggy Smith announced their retirement last month from Cowgirl Creamery – the cheese company they grew from plucky startup to leader in the modern farm-to-table movement – the tributes came in thick and fast.

To their devoted followers, this was no surprise.

Since its founding more than two decades ago in a converted hay barn in the California town of Point Reyes Station, Cowgirl Creamery has become one of the country’s most beloved cheese brands. It is credited with kickstarting a renaissance of artisan cheesemaking; Conley and Smith, meanwhile, have become something akin to cheese royalty.

Amanda Parker, the company’s managing director, describes the duo as “rock stars of American cheese”.

“Peggy and Sue really took a visionary approach toward stewardship of land, of the preservation of tradition,” Parker says. “Their impact continues to be huge.” 

Read my full feature for the Guardian here …